Founded in Paris by designer Junyan Xu, YAN XU is celebrated for its unique print language, with each season’s patterns hand-drawn by Xu to convey profound thematic stories. Merging refined tailoring with deep philosophical musings, the brand explores contemporary hedonism and the intriguing notion of “bitterness consciousness.” Through fashion, YAN XU serves as a medium for interpreting life’s complexities, offering a vision of peaceful radicalism and romanticism.
Central to YAN XU’s ethos is the idea of free interpretation. Xu crafts designs that refuse to confine the viewer to a single perspective, instead offering garments that provoke thought and invite individual contemplation. This approach is reflected in the brand’s precise craftsmanship, where the concealment of stitches and the beauty of restraint draw upon the quiet elegance of Eastern aesthetics.
For Spring/Summer 2025, YAN XU unveils Collection VII: "Madness and Civilization," a deep philosophical exploration of human nature. The collection tells a story inspired by the tension between freedom and self-awareness, presenting a visual and emotional meditation on the relationship between chaos and order.
In this collection, a group of madmen drifts on a ship, navigating capricious tides in a state of carefree abandon. As they arrive on a remote island, they exist in a whimsical world where lightheartedness and freedom reign supreme. These wanderers, unburdened by the norms of society, embody a sense of untamed existence—a celebration of wild freedom that is both exhilarating and isolating.
In contrast, the collection delves into a more introspective theme as the focus shifts to a lone madman who, through his isolation, seeks self-awareness. His journey reflects the philosophical idea that madness can give rise to civilization, but as it fades, a new realm of existence emerges. This poignant narrative is expressed through intricate design, where Xu’s signature prints and tailored silhouettes embody the cyclical nature of human experience, from chaos to clarity.
With its thoughtful, artistic approach, Collection VII evokes a world where madness fuels transformation and civilization is fleeting, only to dissolve into the unknown. The designs, sophisticated yet expressive, challenge the viewer to engage with the deeper questions of existence—what it means to be free, to be mad, and ultimately, to be human.
In YAN XU’s SS25 collection, Junyan Xu continues to craft garments that transcend fashion, using intricate prints and philosophical discourse to create a narrative that is both visually stunning and intellectually engaging. By celebrating the balance between restraint and wildness, Xu’s work encourages us to explore the delicate interplay between madness and civilization in our own lives.
