Yan Xu’s Madness and Civilization is a deeply crafted, narrative-driven collection that merges slow production with storytelling. It draws from themes of isolation, freedom, and transformation, inviting wearers into a world of poetic, conceptual fashion.
The journey of each garment begins with yarn dyeing, followed by the design and weaving of unique patterns, and a variety of eco-friendly dyeing methods, such as cold dyeing, botanical dyeing, and ink dyeing. Yan Xu’s founder hand-draws each print, inspired by traditional Japanese woodblock and ink wash techniques, and these are screen-printed by artisans in Aichi Prefecture, Japan, honoring Japan’s legacy of meticulous craftsmanship. Even the buttons reflect this dedication, treated with burning, washing, and sandblasting techniques, with jade buttons used across both men’s and women’s pieces.
Yan Xu’s experimentation with pleated fabrics highlights the brand’s commitment to both form and function. After extensive tests, polyester was chosen for its lasting pleat retention, maintaining structure even after washing. This selection reflects the brand’s dedication to timeless durability within an artful design.
The collection’s narrative unfolds in two parts. Part I, The Ship of Fools, portrays a whimsical, unbound existence, as madmen drift on an imaginary journey to an island where they are free. Part II turns introspective, exploring themes of isolation and connection as a madman encounters a woman who symbolizes transformation. Through this meeting, chaos gives way to civilization, symbolizing the power of connection and growth.
Madness and Civilization embodies Yan Xu’s vision of slow fashion, where each detail speaks to artistry, sustainability, and the timeless evolution of style and meaning. The collection resonates as both wearable art and an invitation to reflect on the transformative journey of self and society.
